There wasn’t quite enough light to see in through the
window, but one could glimpse the pretty blue blinds, a touch of gold
fringing and an ornate gilt light fitting. This was once a very fine coach
indeed.
Did Victoria enjoy
travelling in her own special railway carriage? Was she impressed with the
magnificent coat of arms on her engine or did she, barely notice it was there?
Still, it wasn’t Victoria’s Jubilee that was being
celebrated at National Railway Museum in York that weekend. The historic Royal
Carriages are all kept in a siding within the main building. Instead, tying in
nicely with the current Queen’s 60th anniversary, the
museum was holding its 2012 Railfest, and how.
The deserted acres of the old railway yards – those not now covered by new housing - were full of engines, carriages and a
variety of maintenance machines. At the edge of the festive crowds and bustle
were the weeds and broken sheds and disused tracks of this once-mighty railway
hub: the shadow behind the air of nostalgic celebration.
Some of the most important and record breaking exhibits –
the Mallard, the Sir Nigel Gresley, the Flying Scotsman, and more - had been brought out from the Museum Hall.
They stood in the sunshine, surrounded by staff and volunteers, admirers,
photographers, enthusiasts and general hangers-on.
Stephenson’s
bright yellow Rocket was there with its duo of carriages, both closed and open, as well as a large
coal truck from the Middelton Works, near Leeds, one of the earliest industrial railways.
More recent beauties included the sleek art deco maroon-and-gold Duchess of
Hamilton engine, a style with echoes of Poirot and VIP stabbings in first class carriages.
For now, the elegant silver-blue Battle of Britain Memorial Flight
train was named and honoured with a flypast of its own that very afternoon. People gazed at the sky, with memories and tales of memories of their own, while children played happily on the climbing frames and swings, as they should.
It was a busy day. Here and there, engines in full steam puffed up and down
short stretches of allocated track.
All around, men in out-of-date railway
uniforms shovelled coal into boilers – ready for Richard Hannay to leap on to
the footplate - or brandished oily rags and cans at their iron horses or just
hurried around like so many Perks’s from The Railway Children.
The volunteers sauntered about, grinning with casual
authority, employed as perhaps they once had been. They took turns refusing
entry, offering safety advice and gathering in small, select gangs exactly
where they could interrupt keen photographer getting a clear shot of their
engines.
The day was an enjoyable romp, but what will I take away
from it? One or two plot possibilities but mostly the kind of memories that, when taken with a pinch of imagination,
makes time-travelling fiction read more believably.
The hard wooden benches in the
third class carriage. The black billowing smoke choking the chest. The tarry
reek in the air, everywhere. The faint covering of dirt everywhere: on the handkerchief,
underfoot, on the now unveiled face and ungloved hands. The constant noise. The heat and the
cold. The waiting around and watching out for the unfamiliar. The continual labour and toil that bound teams of
men together. The god of the timetable and the lists records broken, often in a kind
of vanity.
And of course, for a certain era, the small particle of grit in the
eye.
My Railfest time travel will be useful but was not very
adventurous. Now I’m wondering what “real research” transport experiences are
out there for History Girls and Boys? Do tell.
Penny Dolan
A Boy Called M.O.U.S.E (Bloomsbury)
"the kind of memories that, when taken with a pinch of imagination, make time-travelling fiction read more believably."
ReplyDeleteThat's it exactly - all it takes is the one tiny detail and an entire scene gets the kiss of life.
Thanks for posting - and I LOVE Queen Victoria's carriage!
Wish I was near enough to go to this - I love steam engines! I have notes from conversations with my dad about when his dad took him to see the Royal Scot, which must have been in the early 30s.
ReplyDeleteFor my money the best railway scene ever is when Greta Garbo gradually appears as the clouds of steam part, and sees Vronsky for the first time, on the station platform in Moscow, in Anna Karenina...
This is lovely, Penny! I love trains and have vivid memories of steam still in the late Fifties, early 60s. What fun those trains were, with their compartments and luggage racks.
ReplyDeleteThank you for those lovely sensuous memories. Knowing the way you write, they'll be deployed wonderfully somewhere.
ReplyDeleteI wish I was on the Duchess of Hamilton right now, sipping something tall in a jolting glass.
A lovely piece, the mention of the smell of tar put me right there - but I never knew the steam age - I must have travelled in time.
ReplyDelete