Sometimes in our minds historical
figures are inextricably linked to particular places. In the case of Mary,
Queen of Scots, among the many castles connected with her name Loch Leven is
remembered as the place of her first imprisonment and subsequent exciting escape.
Not long after her third, final, and disastrous marriage, Mary surrendered at
Carberry Hill in June 1567 to the Scots Lords who had risen in rebellion
against her rule. Despite being promised safe conduct to visit her infant son, she
was taken at night to be imprisoned within the castle on Loch Leven, near
Kinross. Her jailors were the dastardly Douglas family, implacable enemies of Mary’s
current husband, James Hepburn, Earl of Bothwell
Mary had associations
with Loch Leven earlier in her short reign as Queen of Scotland. One of her
favourite pastimes was hawking and Loch Leven is a perennial stopover for migrating
species of birds. She stayed there on several occasions with her second
husband, Lord Henry Darnley, to take advantage of the hunting opportunities.
Located in modern day
Perthshire, Loch Leven is a designated National Nature Reserve, one of the
major sites in Europe for migratory birds. As the year ends, thousands upon
thousands of birds, travelling from the Arctic Circle and northern Europe, paused
to feed from the waters of the loch and the surrounding wetlands and fields. It’s
a wonderful experience to see these enormous flocks of birds coming in to land,
outlined against the glorious glow of a winter-red setting sun. It’s a cycle older
than recorded history and when visiting the castle to research Spy for the Queen of Scots it struck me
that this was a happening unchanged with the passage of time. I felt that I
could block out the faint burr of the ferry boat engine and the chatter of picnicking
families to see almost exactly what Mary and her companions would have seen
centuries ago. I could write a genuine witness
account in as told by the main character, Jenny:
Suddenly there was a noise like the rustle of a thousand silken
petticoats at a fabulous ball. Swinging and soaring above us, borne on the
evening air, we heard the chittering of wild fowl as birds in their thousands
came sweeping in.
‘Oh!’ I gasped in wonder.
Duncan too was gazing skyward. ‘At my home in Knoydart,’ he said,
‘there is a similar sight worth seeing in spring and late autumn. It is a
stopping place for the wild geese as they travel their migration routes.’
All about us the birds came in to land on the river banks as the sun set.
‘It is quite wonderful,’ I breathed. Fiery red rays of light were
slanting through the mountains. It was as though some untutored painter had released
his palette upon the sky, as if God himself had dispersed a rainbow among the
snow-crowned hilltops.
Another, less well known visit
to the island by Mary was arranged so that she could debate with the Protestant
preacher, John Knox, on the subject of whether those of a different religious
persuasion, particularly Roman Catholics, should be allowed any type of religious
freedom or civil rights.
Paintings of this show a
timid Mary cowering away from Knox, whereas accounts from the time say that she
gave him sound and strong arguments for religious tolerance. They can’t have
parted on such bad terms for immediately afterwards Mary sought his advice on
the marital problems of her illegitimate half-sister, Jean, and asked him to
try to effect peace between her and her estranged husband.
But for the many tourists
who visit the island it’s Queen Mary’s daring escape after almost a year of imprisonment
that attracts them. What adds to the romance of the situation is that although
the rebel Lord of the Castle was her willing jailor, some of the other males in
the extensive Douglas family were won over to Mary’s cause and (as they saw it)
the plight of a beautiful woman being treated unjustly. The most notable sympathiser
was the young lad, Willie Douglas. On a pre-arranged evening Willie, while
serving his uncle his dinner, dropped a napkin onto the castle keys which lay
discarded on a table. When leaving the room the boy took away the serving dishes,
and also the keys concealed inside the napkin. Beckoning to the Queen who was
awaiting his signal at her window in the round tower he hurried across the
courtyard and unlocked the main gate. Mary crouched in the bottom of the one
boat Willie had left unchained and he rowed her across the loch to where the
rest of her rescue party waited with horses.
When I visited the castle
I had with me a young woman, scarcely out of her teens. As we left the castle jetty
I thought of Mary, not much older than this girl, separated from her baby boy,
recently miscarried of twins, making the same journey, shivering and in terror
of life. I shivered too as the reality of historical events came sweeping over
me like the shadow of the geese passing overhead.
Twitter:
@theresabreslin1
Spy for the Queen of Scots is
nominated for the Carnegie Medal and an Illustrated
Treasury of Scottish Folk and Fairy Tales illustrated by Kate Leiper is nominated for
the Greenaway Medal.
In conjunction with the Citizens Theatre and South Lanarkshire schools
the Divided City musical will be produced at Hamilton Town
House Theatre in February 2013 and in the Millennium Theatre in the City of
Derry-Londonderry in March 2013
What a wonderful post, Theresa...feel as if I were there. Super photos, too!
ReplyDeleteIt's one of my favourite places Adèle - even without the history.
ReplyDeleteLoved this blog, despite having little or no sympathy for Mary QoS! The descriptions of the birds, and the sense of contact across the centuries was breathtaking.
ReplyDeleteAmazed that there are so few comments!
Thanks Susan, I know what you mean about Mary. I was going to do her as the 'character I just don't get' feature but when I did the research and found out about the frequent attempts to poison her from an early age (her two older male siblings died mysteriously in infancy) ,her isolation in her teenage years, and her treatment which was quite sophisticated abuse, and I thought of my own teenage girls, then I had a lot more sympathy for her. Women were so completely trapped by circumstances then, well, even now some still are....
ReplyDelete