As this is now the second
half of August – the downward slope? - my
History Girl post is very much a “staycation” kind of piece. Besides, I have
work I need to get on with come tomorrow.
For example, last weekend,
I saw a view that I love: the wide, grassy stretch of Blackheath, where the
roofs of the nearest houses peep up over the edge of the heath. The heath is
one of those places in London
where you can suddenly see the sky and, for a moment, imagine other times and
other travellers.
A small faded fairground was a useful reminder that Blackheath
has always attracted people of various trades.
For much of its life,
Blackheath was outside London.
One route across the grass is named Wat
Tyler Road after the leader of the Peasant’s
Revolt who met the duplicitous boy-king Richard II here.
The upland was a safe
distance from the city then, although not safe for Wat and his followers.
Another road, the A2, follows
the old Roman Watling Street
as it made its way down to the Thames crossing
at Deptford. The wide heathland is not as smooth as it seems at first glance. Plague pits are
rumoured to lie beneath the faded grass and small quarries were opened up for
gravel and chalk, later becoming ponds. Some of these were filled in with rubble
after the WWII air raids. Blackheath is very much a place for necessary
purposes.
Dark purposes too;
although the A2 is a now trail of nose-to-tail vehicles but I cannot help thinking
of all the carriages and horses that have crossed that slightly dangerous
space. The infamous Shooter’s Hill was steep enough to slow carriages and horses
and so became a favourite place for highwaymen in the 16th
& 17th centuries, complete with a gibbet at the crossroads. Ready for
quick dispatch of felons, perhaps?
There’s elegance here too:
Blackheath is edged with elegant old Georgian
and Victorian houses, their tall windows and occasional balconies peering
across the rough summit, observing the road.
The Southern edge is marked by the
mellow stone wall that borders Greenwich Park, This, of course, is home of the
Royal Observatory; the sloping lawns lead down to the Queen’s House and the Old
Royal Naval College and the bend in a river once full of ships.
This time, driving, we turned
down winding Maze Hill, watching the late afternoon sun shine on the proud
glass towers of Docklands opposite. At
the foot of Maze Hill, tucked away across Trafalgar Road, was an interesting
looking old tower. The A-Z suggested two options: the almshouses of Trinity Hospital or the Greenwich Power station?
The latter, we decided as we hurried onward. . . . Oh dear. Barely ten minutes
to cross Blackheath but there’s already so many layers of this history to
enjoy.
What about other happy “staycation”
moments? A book and biography, “Billy
Ruffian” that I’ll blog about another day. A local news story: some new streets
in a Leeds estate have been named after “Barnbow
Lasses” - the 35 young girls killed (and more injured) during an accidental explosion at the Barnbow
munitions factory back in 1916.
There's always the regular joy of names on maps: close to my present home are villages
like Nun Monkton and Upper Poppleton and
Killighall and Kettlewell and Birthwaite and - to the amusement of
visitors - even a river with the Pythonesque name of the Nidd.
There’s the joy of objects
remembered, things you only have to think about to feel the history tingle, and
they need not be nice. Tipu’s mechanical Tiger is a gruesome favourite, first
seen long ago on visits to the V&A with a favourite uncle. Or, near home, William Burgess’s Gothic Revival church in the
grounds of the Studley Royal deer park,
where stone birds chase the moths and butterflies up the carved columns. Or moments: out on a walk
near Ripley Castle, the excitement of finding a
moated site hidden within some trees by Saddler Carr. The information board says it is the
remains of a 14th Century manor recorded only as Dark Hall. Nothing more, only
the strange atmosphere under the shadowy branches.
And the wealth
of tv programmes about history - not
just those on the Great War - including a re-run of Schama’s History of Britain,
missed last time around.
I could go on with this
plenty: last night I was at a talk by the "Muddy Archaeologist” Gillian Hovell about all the cultures around the
Mediterranean.
The main thinking point I recall is that the art of a culture reveals what's important to the people: Phoenician pottery is decorated with ships and boats but Mycenian art chooses fighting warriors and horses.
This is very welcome news for those who don’t do/can't afford the whole hotel package from the 23rd to the 26th. So I need to start counting my pennies. Especially as History Girl Elizabeth Chadwick
will be speaking there!
So how can history be boring
when it pops up around us every day and, for a writer, brings the kind of idle
thoughts and interesting facts that help to fill the writing well?
Enough from me already - but now I'm wondering what are your current
history joys and pleasures? And what history blogs would you recommend?
Assuming I have some spare time in the
forthcoming weeks . . .
Penny Dolan
2 comments:
Penny, I spent quite a bit of my childhood not far from Blackheath and many of the images you have conjured up in this blog took me right back there. Crossing the heath, the past really seems to assemble it ghosts to watch you pass by. Thank you for the memories. Aside from that, as my own passion is the Mediterranean, its history, the olive, the Phoenicians etc, so I was fascinated to read of the talk you attended yesterday. I have never heard of the 'Muddy Archaeologist', but I will definitely hunt her out now. It is true that the art of a culture frequently speaks reams about their beliefs and their daily lives… Have a lovely Sunday.
Thanks, Carol. Glad you enjoyed revisiting the heath.
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